The motor maintains constant torque and air pressure regardless of volume or variation in voltage drawn in directly from the fuel cell. Results from a 10kW Aeristech Fuel Cell Compressor currently under test on fuel cell stacks should be available for review by the end of the year.
In Aeristech was one of 14 UK companies funded by Innovate UK to study the development and feasibility of low-carbon vehicle technology. In Aeristech was one of 14 companies funded by Innovate UK to carry out feasibility studies into the development of disruptive low-carbon vehicle technology, resulting in the 10 kW compressor now under test.
The end with the straight cut hole is fastened to the throttle body side. The other end with the oval shaped hole is normally fastened to the fuel rail side for ease of alignment.
There two short 6 x 10mm and two long 6 x 25mm bolts. The 6 x 25mm bolt, two washers and a nut. After the bolt has been pushed through the throttle body from the top side, slide the bracket on then the washer followed by a nut. Both fuel rails have been drilled and tapped to accept 6mm bolts. They require no nuts. Line the retaining bracket up with the fuel rail and thread in the 6 x 10mm bolt.
The manifold style is a little more basic. There are still two retaining brackets though, one for each side. Locate the two small rectangular aluminum pieces with one hole drilled through it at one end.
You will also need four 8 x 12mm nuts. Thread a nut onto the long 8 x 60mm stud. Thread it down far enough so that there is enough room to slide the retaining bracket on followed by one more 8 x 12mm nut. It's not necessary to run the nuts down so far that when they are tight, the retaining bracket forces against the fuel rail. Too much pressure can cause the "O" rings to link when under pressure.
Repeat this procedure on the other side. Each throttle body is equipped with a threaded vacuum port. The port is used to supply vacuum manifold pressure to the fuel pressure regulator. The vacuum port feeds from an internal passage that sense manifold pressure from both intake ports.
The internal passage provides a dampening action between the intake ports which levels out the manifold pressure signal en route to the fuel pressure regulator. Wrap the threaded ends of the fittings with Teflon tape, thread one into each throttle body vacuum port and snug'em down. Snug is enough, we're dealing with tapered pipe threads, and over tightening could result in a cracked vacuum port.
Before positioning the cylinder head to manifold gaskets on the cylinder heads, make sure the sealing surface is clean and free from any old gasket material. Make certain to use the gaskets supplied in your kit. Stock gaskets will not tolerate the pressures of a turbo and will blow out.
Line up the intake manifold assemblies with the mounting studs on each head and slide them onto the cylinder heads. Install two 8mm nuts at the base of each manifold and slowly tighten them. The manifolds and throttle bodies will pull inwards as the nuts are tightened. Torque the nuts down to about 14 pounds. Now back to setting up the linkage. Assembling the linkage is a carbon copy of the procedures followed during the installation of dual carburetors. Start by sliding the aluminum linkage arms and throttle cable bracket onto the steel hex cross bar.
The arms are locked in place with allen set screws. The throttle cable bracket locates one hex degree down from the linkage arms. Don't tighten anything down just yet, we'll do that once everything is lined up properly.
Internal tension springs are places in each end of the cross bar to aid in centering the cross bar assembly. Place a small amount of heavy grease inside the support holes at each end of the cross bar.
Insert the tension springs and place the left end of the hex bar over its respective cross bar swivel ball. Push the cross bar onto the swivel ball and line up the right side end of the cross bar with its cross bar swivel ball. If it is necessary to loosen one base, do so and line up the cross bar with the swivel mount and then re-secure the base.
Hopefully your installation of the cross bar assembly has gone smoothly up to this point. The width of your engine may differ from stock. It may be necessary to shorten or lengthen the length of the cross bar so that enough clearance is provided on the cross bar swivel balls.
If the clearance is too far off, it may be necessary to purchase a new cross bar with the correct length so that the installation is done correctly. Now screw the swivel balls out until the cross bar is fully supported by the swivel ball mounts. Center the cross bar linkage assembly by rotating the swivel balls. Adjust the length of the swivel ball mounting screws until the cross bar is centered.
Over tightening, resulting in not enough side play, will cause the linkage bar to bind. Make certain that the cross bar is free to rotate on its axis. Any resistance or binding of the cross bar can be a real problem later.
The linkage rods and heim joints are next. There are four heim joints in all. Two right hand and two left hand heim joints. Each side will need one of each. The linkage rods are equipped with matching right and left hand threads. Once installed you'll be able to fine tune your throttle adjustments by rotating the throttle rods. After all adjustments are made, lock them into position by tightening down the lock nuts. The lock nuts are also supplied in right and left hand threads.
Leave the lock nuts loose for now. After the assembly of the linkage rods is done, secure them to the cross bar linkage arms and the throttle body linkage arms. Thread the four shake proof nuts down on all four heim joint connections. Not all of the way through, leave them a little loose for now. Position the aluminum linkage arms on the cross bar so that the throttle linkage rods are vertical when viewed from the rear of the engine.
Lock the aluminum linkage arms into position by tightening the allen set screws to prevent the aluminum linkage arms from sliding on the cross bar. Slide the aluminum throttle cable arm into position to line up with the throttle cable and tighten down the set screw.
Now check the installed linkage rods, both left and right, making certain that the rods rotate freely. Observe the way the rotation changes the length of the rod assembly. Up to this point the linkage assembly should work freely without any drag or binding. If there is any type of resistance, something is not right. Go back and double check your installation.
If everything is in correct working order, tighten up the shake proof lock nuts that secure the heim joints to the upper and lower linkage arms. Tighten these to no more than 2 lbs. The trick now is to get your linkage aligned to match your preset throttle bodies.
Adjust the throttle linkage rods by rotating in right or left hand directions, until both throttle arms are resting on the idle speed set screws. By rotating the linkage rods you'll be able to extend or shorten the length of the rods. This will allow you to match the preset throttle bodies. Do not change the position of the idle speed set screws to match your linkage. You already set both throttle bodies to the same opening.
Adjust the linkage to match the throttle bodies. When you think that you've got the linkage dialed in, push the aluminum throttle arm downwards and watch the linkage arms as they move from closed to open. If one throttle body "leads" the other, you've got some more dialing in to do.
The opening and closing throttle action of fuel injection with dual throttle bodies is just like dual carburetors, it has to be precise. So play with your linkage until it works like a Swiss watch. Don't try to reinvent the linkage system. Simply adjust it to match your preset throttle bodies and tighten up the four lock nuts on the throttle linkage rods.
Look over the complete assembly carefully prior to connecting the throttle cable. Originally posted by TC View Post. Matt Cramer. Is this the Victor mechanical pump or one of the Essex built electric pumps?
An Aeromotive " hp" or SX would be about the right size; combine it with a bypass type regulator. I think the Edelbrock pumps would be either an SX or the larger I'd be asking what Squirrel runs in his '55, match that and call it done.
Reliable and proven. Only difference is you'll have to boost reference your fuel pressure. Stupid Q time Do you still need a boost referenced regulator if the carb is in a sealed box at that boost level?
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